PILAR DE NAZARET AND DERECHO DE PERNADA. TORRE DE LAS COTERAS ROJAS

Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

You can easily spot the west pillar of Las Coteras Rojas, where the Pilar de Nazaret and Derecho de Pernada climbing routes go up, during the last stretch of the ascent of the La Canalona couloir. These two routes are well known but not overcrowded, at least in comparison with other similar routes in the area, however, both routes are among the best in their style in the Fuente Dé area.

Pilar de Nazaret: A "modern classic" opened by two active climbers almost 40 years ago that set the path for the next generation to follow. Although at first glance the topo may suggest that this is not a very difficult climb, it is advisable to make sure you have what it takes to go as there are few permanent anchors, it is difficult to protect some parts and the pitches are generally sustained. The quality of the rock is generally good. Highly recommended. An almost obligatory route for every "picky" climber. The route has recently been restored.

  • The first belay station is located in a small cave on some pitons, this pitch is a tough one.
  • You'll find the second belay station on a marked ridge in the middle of the wall on two bolts. The pitch is not very demanding, but it is difficult to protect.
  • The third pitch starts with a traverse over a beautiful slab and continues through a system of small dihedrals and cracks. Belay station using pitons in a small cave.
  • There's a crux in the fourth pitch but it is well-protected by a bolt. Belay station using friends.

Derecho de Pernada: A demanding route that will make us struggle a bit in all the pitches. Tight grade in our opinion. Humble in length but nothing to envy to other similar routes in the area. Make sure you've got what it takes to climb it, but highly recommended.

  • First common pitch with the Pillar of Nazareth. A few metres before the belay station of this route we'll have to turn off to another one on the left (two pitons).
  • Second pitch: sustained dihedral and slab of traditional climbing (only two pitons along the pitch). Belay station using two spits.
  • Third pitch: Tough but not very obligatory layback-crack. Then the difficulty decreases. Two pitons in the pitch and common belay station with the Nazareth Pillar (two bolts).
  • Fourth pitch: it climbs up the final pillar through the centre. A beautiful semi-equipped vertical wall. Watch out for the exit of the belay station, it is not very difficult but the first anchor is located high up.
  • We usually rappel down from this belay station. You can also climb an extra pitch (Vº) to the top of the Torre de las Coteras Rojas and walk down.

FACT SHEET

LENGTH

About 150 m

DIFFICULTY

Pilar de Nazaret 6a+ (V+ obligatory)

Derecho de Pernada: 6c (6b obligatory).

DURATION

3-4 h

EQUIPMENT

A set of friends up to Camalot n°2 and nuts

DESCENT

Walking to the Collado de La Canalona. In Derecho de Pernada it is possible to rappel down from the fourth belay station (bring a cordelette to renew the ancient one, the bolts don't have any ring).

FIRST ASCENT

Á.Bengoechea and J.Sáenz 11,12 and 13 August 1995* José Rubio and Juan José Sañudo 2/10/1983 *Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

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