CHA CHAI, LA CASA DONDE NACÍ, CHUCHAQUI AND LA GUERRA DEL COLTÁN. PEÑA OLVIDADA

Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

About 20 minutes walk from the upper cable car station in the direction of La Vueltona we can find a very compact rocky area where there are several open routes described in "La Guía de Picos" climbing guidebook. There are four semi-equipped routes with a total of eight pitches perfect for a good day climbing on excellent rock.

Chuchaqui (V+ obligatory) is the easiest of all. The most difficult moves are well-protected, but the anchors are getting farther apart in the easiest sections. The rock is perfect. You can get down abseiling in one go.

La Casa donde Nací (V+ obligatory) is a bit more difficult but equally recommendable.

  • The first pitch concentrates its difficulty at the beginning of a dihedral protected by two pitons, there are also a few bolts and it can be well-protected with friends.
  • The second pitch is beautiful, it consists of a wall with an exceptional rock equipped with bolts, it is a good idea to take the red or green Camalot with you before reaching the bolts. All the belay stations are equipped with bolts.

Cha Chai (6b+ obl) is an option if we want to test ourselves on more difficult grades.

  • They have the first pitch equipped with a fairly hard move, the rock pinches a bit.
  • The second pitch is more beautiful. It overcomes a small roof well-protected by a bolt that leads to easier terrain on very good rock with grooves. Take Camalot n°2 and 3 to place protection in the grooves.

Guerra del Coltán (6b+ obligatory). A climb on perfect rock but where you have to squeeze your fingers to get between the protections. Tight grade.

FACT SHEET

LENGTH

From 60 to 80 m

DIFFICULTY

See text

DURATION

1 to 2 hours

EQUIPMENT

Semi-equipped routes, but take a set of friends up to Camalot n° 2 although not all will be used. In Cha Chai, take a Camalot n°3 for the second pitch.

DESCENT

Abseiling down the routes.

FIRST ASCENT

Cha Chai: Á.Bengoechea and Gema Lanza 20/6/2004* La Guerra del Coltán: Carlos Fernandez, Silvia Gonzáles and Javier Junquera in July 2015 La Casa donde Nací: Á.Bengoechea, Eduardo R. de Deus and Gema Lanza 12/6/2004* Chuchaqui: Á.Bengoechea and Gema Lanza 6/8/2005*

*Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

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