Climbing routes Directory Naranjo de Bulnes

The Cherokee Way in the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu) is located on the right side of the West Face of the wall. Even if less famous and more difficult, it's similar in style to the Sagitario. Just like this one, it doesn't reach the summit, and only goes up to Tiros de la Torca. The second pitch is a bit explosive, but it's a very nice and appealing route.

Croquis de escalada de la vía Cherokee Way en la cara oeste del naranjo de bulnes o picu urriellu
Topo of the Cherokee Way

The route has been restored a few years ago. Even if the bolts are safe, new ones have been added where there used to be pitons, all the belay stations are set up with rings to rappel down, but their location is uncomfortable and old burils haven't been removed. We must appreciate the effort and work done by those who restored the route. Nevertheless, we have to admit that it's been done in a kind of sloppy way... We need to keep in mind that the routes aren't ours, we can't just add new bolts at our own discretion, and even less so after 25 years. Even if we were the ones opening them.

Cherokee Way in the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu). Route Description:

  • We start with an easy first pitch, but in which bolts are getting distant from each other, and that leads us beneath the big overhang.
  • The second pitch presents a very explosive section at the beginning, the overall difficulty varies depending on the climber from 6c+ to 7b. If you're struggling here it's going to be difficult to pass in A0, so it might be a good idea to take a hook. After, it gets easier.
  • The third pitch and the fourth are similar. Exits are somewhat technical and obligatory, but also well protected. Then, the difficulty drops but the bolts get farther apart. The rock is perfect.
  • The fifth pitch is more sustained, very beautiful. Once its unique bolt reached, keep on slightly to the left until getting to a small dihedral.
  • From this belay station, it's possible to climb one more transition pitch to the Leiva route, or to rappel down directly.



About 200 m


7a/b (6a obligatory)


From 3 to 4 hours plus rappelling down


2 x 60 m ropes

It can be a good idea to take a hook for the second pitch (optional)/span>

Aliens: Green, Yellow and Red. Camalots: Green, Red and Yellow (0.75, 1 and 2)


If not climbing the last pitch, you'll need to rappel down from the belay station 4 to the belay station 3, and from this one back down (with two 60 m ropes). If climbing the last pitch, it's better to rappel down the Sagitario route next by. All of the Sagitario belay stations are set up with a ring to rappel down, but the topo shows the fastest way to get back down which consists in setting up two rappels in Sagitario, and one last in Leiva (with two 60 m ropes). Warning!!! In case of rain or stormy weather, rappelling down Sagitario or Leiva is very dangerous because of the loose rocks falling down these routes.


Javier Fernández and Rafael Gavín 6 July 1984

First free climbing ascent : Jesús Wensell 18 June 1993

Do you know this route? Bring your experience