DÉJAME VIVIR + DIRECTA AL ALBA. HORCADOS ROJOS

Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

Déjame Vivir + Directa al Alba on the south wall of Horcados Rojos is one of the most emblematic climbing routes not only in the Fuente Dé area, but in the whole of the Picos de Europa. It's been 30 years since its opening (and in winter), which only enhances the figure, commitment and dedication of its openers. A route of great quality both for the elegance of its pitches and the quality of its opening. Contrary to popular belief, it is not a particularly exposed route, although it is advisable to feel comfortable in this level.

  • Vías de escalada en Horcados Rojos
  • Reequipamiento y croquis actualizado de la vía Déjame Vivir + Directa al Alba en Horcados Rojos. Recopilación online de escaladas en los Picois de Europa.

The route has recently been restored and all the spits have been replaced by 10x90mm stainless steel bolts.

Déjame Vivir + Directa al Alba. Route description:

  • The first pitch is almost fully equipped with rock tunnels, pitons and two bolts. Somewhat obligatory between the anchors. The rock is much better than it looks from below. Belay station using two bolts.
  • Second pitch: Traverse of an unbeatable rock quality secured by a bolt. Technical on very small hand and foot holds until we reach the corner. We continue through the corner where the difficulty decreases. There are some pitons and one more bolt. The final part of the ascent is easier if you climb from the left (a piton marks the turn-off). Belay station using two bolts.
  • Third pitch: a somewhat intense start. Then the difficulty decreases but you have to be careful not to get confused about the itinerary. Set up belay station using one spit and one bolt.
  • Fourth pitch: Open from below in free climbing. Just as good as the two pitches of Soy un Hombre Nuevo in Urriellu. An excellent rock well equipped with bolts and a piton, but which requires a bit of intense climbing between protections. Belay station using two bolts.
  • Fifth pitch: traverse to the left for a few metres and then continue straight on along a very vertical section thant doesn't exceed V+. Very good rock and beautiful pitches, clean. Belay station using friends.
  • Escalando el segundo largo de déjame vivir en horcados rojos
    Second pitch
  • Second pitch
  • First pitch.
  • Escalando directa al alba en horcados rojos
    Directa al Alba
  • Second pitch
  • First pitch.
  • Last pitch
  • In Directa al Alba
  • Third pitch.
  • Tercer largo de la vía Déjame Vivir + Directa al Alba en Horcados Rojos
    Second pitch

To sum up, the combination of Déjame Vivir + Directa al Alba in Horcados Rojos is a route that is a little short but may be among the best in its difficulty in Picos de Europa. Highly recommended.

FACT SHEET

LENGTH

About 200 m

DIFFICULTY

7a (6b obligatory)

DURATION

4-6 h

EQUIPMENT

Nuts and a set of friends up to Camalot n°2. Take extra large Camalot (green, red or yellow) for the second and the third pitches if the climber's level appears to be a bit low.

DESCENT

Walk down to the abseils of the pass, or walk along the north side to the Horcados Rojos pass, which is longer but similar in time, especially in a group of three.

FIRST ASCENT

Á.Bengoechea, J.Sáenz, W. Quintanilla and R.López in February 1990. (Directa al Alba 30/6/1996 regarding the two first)*

*Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

SIMILAR CLIMBS

Topos

COMPLETE LISTING
Picos de Europa

NARANJO DE BULNES
Picos de Europa

FUENTE DÉ

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