Climbing routes Directory Naranjo de Bulnes

The Gizon Berri Bat Naiz (in Euskera) in the Naranjo de Bulnes (Soy un Hombre Nuevo in Spanish - I'm a new man in English) has become one of the most repeated routes on the West Face of the Picu Urriellu. People say that this route may be among the best free climbing routes in Europe in terms of difficulty.
It's a 10 pitches climb until it connects with the Directísma, with vertical even slightly overhanging walls in some sections, using small holds, water pocket holds, friction style ridges, and sections with lots of perfect rock holes, very typical of this wall. The belay stations are set up using three spits, except for the one at the junction with the Directísima, which has three "Ps" (a kind of burils) The pitches are quite well-equipped with spits, but they are far away from each others in the easier sections, it is advisable to carry some friends and to be able to climb in 6b with ease. Highly recommended.

Gizon Berri Bat Naiz in the Naranjo de Bulnjes (Picu Urriellu) was opened mixing free and artificial climbing. A few years later, the openers installed the current equipment by abseiling the route. A route stolen to the future according to some and a great and modern vision of the openers according to others... Controversy aside, the climbing is exceptional, almost all the pitches will make us struggle to send them but will leave us with a great impression.

Gizon Berri Bat Naiz (Soy un Hombre Nuevo) in the Naranjo de Bulnes. Route description:

  • In the first pitch, the hardest section can be done in A0, and then it's 6a+.
  • The second one is delicate and technical on the feet, very nice. A bit hard grade in our opinion.
  • The third pitch is truly exceptional.
  • In the sixth pitch, it's easier if you go around a bit on the right side instead of climbing up straight from one anchor to the other. The spits are getting quite farther apart.
  • The eighth pitch is beautiful and the most difficult of all, it's safe and almost equipped but a bit demanding. The arms will also start to suffer here.
  • Once in the Directísima, there are still three almost unequipped pitches to the summit.

We get back down using the rappels that have been set up in the South Face. Traditionally, people used to rappel down the Directa de los Martínez, but two parallel lines have recently been installed to avoid gatherings as well as disturbing people climbing the Directa de los Martínez (see descent description). It's also possible to rappel down the Murciana 78 as all its belay stations are equipped to rappel down.



About 550 m to the summit


7b+ (6b/+ obligatory)


from 7 to 9 hours to the summit


There's not much protection apart from the permanent anchors, but it's necessary to carry a set of friends up to Camalot n°2 for the easier pitches and the final ones in the "Directísima". Two 60 m ropes recommended for the rappels, and 12-14 quickdraws.


Downclimb the upper amphitheatre, then use one of the rappel lines set up for the descent. It's better not to rappel down the Directa de los Martínez in order to avoid gatherings as well as disturbing the climbers. You can also rappel down the "Murciana 78".


Joan Lazcano and Ramón Portilla in September 1989. However, the current equipment was installed later abseiling the route by the same people who opened it. First free climbing ascent : Íñigo Basterra and Ánder Gardeazábal in 1994 (Source : Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa").

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