El Canalón and Demencia Senil are located on the southwest buttress of Santa Ana, next to the Horcados Rojos track. There are several climbing routes open in this area. They have only two to four pitches but are good routes worth a visit. They're a good option because you can rappel them down if you want to climb various in the same day.
The two most accessible routes on the Santa Ana buttress are El Canalón and Demencia Senil. Two routes that are slowly becoming classics and are a good test before attempting more difficult routes. Both can be climbed in one day. Highly recommended.
Demencia Senil on the buttress of Santa Ana Route description:
Dementia Senil has two pitches, the first and especially the third of very good rock. Highly recommended.
- First pitch: Nice wall where you have to meander to find the easiest route. Set up belay station using one spit and one bolt with runners.
- The second pitch is better than what it looks like from below. There's a piton and two rock tunnels. It can be well protected in general. The end of the pitch goes diagonally upwards to the right. Set up belay station using one spit and one bolt with runners.
Finally, the third pitch is the most beautiful. A wall of perfect rock. The anchors are getting farther apart in the easiest sections. Set up belay station using two spits with runners.
El Canalón on the buttress of Santa Ana Route description:
The Canalón is the most characteristic of all the routes on the Santa Ana buttress and also the most accessible.
- The two first pitches progress along the weak parts to get to the giant groove. There are bolts in the most difficult moves, but then they get away. Pay attention to the first bolt, which is a little high.
- The third pitch climbs along the well-market groove. The exit is a bit exposed but if you are flexible it is not too difficult. Belay station using two bolts without rings triangulated with cordelettes to a homemade runner (it is advisable to bring cordelettes to renew it and an oval shackle).
- Finally, the fourth pitch, although simple, is very entertaining due to the impressive quality of the rock. Set up belay station using spits and a runner.