La Muga climbing route is less well known than others on the south face of the Horcados Rojos such as Chico Problemático or Rojo Libanés. Although the quality of the rock on this part of the wall is not as good as on the right side, the talent of the openers makes this route almost a must for climbers who have already climbed many routes on this mountain. The first pitch after turning off the Sur Clásica may be among the best in the area.

La Muga in Horcados Rojos. Route description:

  • La Muga starts with the first two pitches of the Sur Clásica in Horcados Rojos. If the ropes are properly aligned, the two lengths can be linked into one.
  • The third pitch starts on a simple low-angle slab until reaching a vertical wall of excellent orange rock. The pitch overcoming this wall in search of its weak point, requires climbing with limited protection. One more example of vision and route opening.
  • The next pitch starts with a hard and obligatory bulge and then drops in difficulty. But don't disregard for places where you can install protection. The rock is not bad, but you have to climb more carefully.
  • Fifth pitch: Similar to the previous one but fairly easier.
  • Sixth pitch: We will find several rock tunnels, pitons and two bolts that will encourage us to free climb it, but the rock of the first section is a little uncertain, which can be a factor to take into account. In the second half it improves a lot. Great atmosphere throughout the pitch.
  • Finally, on the seventh pitch, we go out completely traversing to the right searching for a small couloir. We will find a large unequipped rock tunnel in the middle of this couloir, and a few metres further we can set up the belay station using another rock tunnel (it should be renovated, it is very old). From here we continue on easy terrain (II-IIIº) through the exit couloir of the Classic South route.



About 300 m from the ground


7a (6b obligatory)


4-6 hours


A set of friends up to Camalot n°3


Walking down the normal track of Horcado Rojos


Javier Sáenz, Ángel Bengoechea and Agustín Rodríguez on the 3 and 4 July 1996*

*Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

First free climbing ascent: Although the bulges of the upper pitch had already been solved, the first known free climbing ascent of the full pitch was made by Pablo Ruiz Blín and Jesus Ibard in 2017.

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