MADEJUNO - TIROLLAGO RIDGE

The traverse from Pico Madejuno (2509m) to Pico Tiro Llago (2561m) is one of the best-known ridges in the Picos de Europa. A highly recommended mountain activity.

Although the climbing difficulty is low, ridges are usually very exposed and with sections that are difficult or impossible to protect. Furthermore, even if this arête mainly benefits from very good rock, some parts of the crests can be very fragmented, which makes it necessary to move with ease in this type of terrain.

The best way to access the route is from the Fuente Dé cable car via Fuente Escondida and the north face of San Carlos to Tiro Casares. Go round the southern face and at then scramble (III°) until reaching the bottom of the route, the dihedral-couloir that goes up to the Madejuno. It can also be accessed from Caben de Remoña and Vega de Liordes. A little longer, especially on the return journey, but it does not depend on the timetable of the cable car.

• Quite an obvious itinerary to the top of Madejuno.
• Then, a very aerial section leads to a small downclimb (use a spit to protect), and later to a 15-20m long overhanging abseil to the south side.
• A few metres farther on we find two parallel cracks that prevent us from moving onward, climb up the one on the right.
• A second abseil along a kind of couloir on the south side of the ridge takes us to an area of boulders and steps where we continue walking until we begin the ascent to Tiro Llago. It is possible to continue this section along the edge of the ridge, but to do so you have to scramble up to it once you have finished the abseil.
• The ascent to Tiro Llago is quite evident with some sections of up to IIIº. To reach the east summit there is a short section of more vertical scrambling (III+).
• Rappel down to the pass between the two summits of Tiro Llago and then climb up the south side to the main summit of Tiro Llago.
• To get down, continue along the ridge towards the west until you reach the rappel lines.

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