The Maraya route is the least difficult of the routes on the right side of Horcados Rojos. Even so, as on all routes in this area, it is not advisable to go with limited capacities as the grade is maintained and requires a lot of climbing. Beautiful route with nice atmosphere. Highly recommended.

On the south face of Horcados Rojos there are a large number of climbing routes open. All the free climbing routes on the right side of the wall are quite modern in terms of itineraries and equipment. Although they are rather short, the flair of the openers has made all of them among the best of Picos de Europa in their style.

Maraya in Horcados Rojos. Route description:

  • The first pitch consists of an easy scrambling section until getting below two dihedrals. We climb up the right dihedral, the most difficult move of the pitch is in this dihedral. There won't be any major difficulties from here until the belay station (IV). Set up the belay station from a comfortable ledge on a large block.
  • The second pitch climbs up the wall of very good rock just to the left of a dihedral-crack, then continues along this dihedral until a few metres before a roof where we can see the belay station to our left (two bolts).
  • The third pitch overcomes the roof located on the right of the belay station. It is very well protected by the two rock tunnels and has good grips. Once passed this roof we continue traversing upwards to the left with some small moves until we reach the belay station. The left variant is, in our opinion, more beautiful, it is a little difficult to protect the first few metres but the rock is exceptional.
  • The fourth pitch takes us via an easy upward traverse to the right until getting under a large dihedral. Continue slightly to the right until getting below another large dihedral where we can ste up the belay station on two pitons (this is the original and most recommended route).
  • The fifth and final pitch consists of climbing this layback-dihedral-chimney. It can be very well-protected especially if using Blue Camalot (number 3).

The route has been restored, and the spits of the belay stations have been replaced with bolts. Although the restoration is safe, it has not been done under the supervision of the Picos de Europa Re-equipment Committee or the Cantabrian Federation. The restorers have not installed stainless steel but zinc-plated bolts, the location of the belay stations aren't the most comfortable, and the location of the anchors is not the best for simul climbing. It is important to value the work of the restorers for their effort, but before restoring a route we must aprraised if our experience is wide enough to be able to do it and not to botch it up...



About 200 m


V+ (V+ obligatory)




Nuts and a set of friends from Camalot n°0,5 up to n°3. If a bit short level wise, take one or two extra friends (0.75, 1 or 2) and some Alien.


Walk down to the abseils of the pass, or walk along the north side to the Horcados Rojos pass, which is longer but similar in time, especially in a group of three.


J.Sáenz and J.Rubio in 1987

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