The south face of Pico San Carlos has a humble wall in terms of distance but with abrasive limestone rock, perfect for climbing. The tranquillity of the area and the good quality of the routes make it's worth a visit. Mitago and Martingada are slowly becoming classics of "modest" difficulty in the Fuente Dé area.
Martingada is the easiest of the three. Good rock overall. There is hardly any fixed equipment installed, so it is a good option for beginners in mountain climbing. Highly recommended.
- The route starts under a large chimney that can be easily seen from the ground. Climb up the left side of the chimney to reach a cave where you can set up the belay station tying a large block.
- The next pitch leads out of the cave to the left over a small grooves wall, and then turns off to the right through a flake-crack with a piton at the end of it. Then, we'll face a small wall a bit more simple (IV), but difficult to protect on the easier parts until we reach the belay station.
- The third pitch is the most difficult of the route. We leave the belay station vertically and after two metres we turn off to the right in search of the easiest areas. Then we continue climbing up with a slightly to the left (two pitons) until we come to two large grooves easy to protect with a Camalot nº3 and a nº2. After these grooves, we can see the belay station of the Mitago route on our left, the belay station we're looking for is located a few metres to our right on a rock tunnel that can be reinforced with a green or yellow Alien.
- The next pitch continues more or less easily until we get over a small overhang after which we can set up a belay station in a small couloir. A belay station is set up on a large block or with friends at the end of it.
- After 15 more metres of climbing on excellent rock, we'll get to a large final ledge where we can either set up a belay station on a rock tunnel or on friends. Once there you can reach the summit of San Carlos by walking for about 5 minutes.
As for the Mitago route, as shown in the topo, it is a little more difficult than the previous one, but it is relatively easy to follow its itinerary. The most difficult sections are easy to protect. Very beautiful.
- To start the route, it is best to look out for a cordelette hanging from a rock tunnel a few metres above the exit (in winter it can be covered with snow!!). The belay station of the first pitch is located in a large block.
- The second pitch continues (and is similar in difficulty), until we get under the big dihedral (there is nothing), and there's a piton at the belay station.
- On the third pitch the difficulty increases, but the rock quality is very good and can be protected quite well, and there is also a rock tunnel and a piton. Belay station using two pitons.
- The fourth pitch continues to the end of the dihedral, the rock is very good and can be protected, there's also has a piton and a rock peak with a cordelette in the cruxes. Once over the dihedral the difficulty decreases again but not the quality of the rock. There is no belay station installation set up but there are multiple possibilities for it.
- Finally, we continue climbing up to the big upper ledge where we finish the route, and install the belay station using a rock tunnel.
Tabletón is a beautiful route, rather more difficult than the two previous ones, but its large central terrace makes it a little bit less attractive. It has two pitches, the two most difficult ones with perfect rock and really nice moves. It is worth it because of these two pitches and the fact that you can extend the day by climbing one of the two previous routes.