Climbing routes Directory Naranjo de Bulnes

The Nani- Marisi, better known as the Nani on the South-East Face of the Picu Urriellu is one of the Naranjo de Bulnes' classics.
A beautiful and recommendable route where some classical pitches get mixed with others along more vertical walls of an exceptional limestone quality.

Nani in the Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes). Route description:

  • At the beginning of the route we can see two large diagonal scars running from left to right. The Nani starts on the right side. The first pitch is easy, belay station set up using two pitons.
  • The second pitch continues along this scar, now more vertically in a dihedral-chimney until overcoming it. It's possible to set up a belay station on a large block or to keep going in the third pitch, an obvious crack until reaching the next belay station (a piton that needs to be reinforced with friends).
  • The fourth pitch is very nice. A vertical wall with holes of an exceptional rock quality even if hard to protect. You need to reach a large hole with two rock tunnels, just a few meters above it there's a comfortable cave where you can set up the belay station (a rock tunnel and a piton that needs to be reinforced with a yellow Camalot).
  • The fifth pitch is the hardest. We set off on an ascending traverse to the right until we reach a large orangish flake. A piton guides us along the way. Then we continue until getting above the flake where we'll find the belay station using three pitons.
  • Sixth pitch of the Nani in the Urriellu : We leave the belay station on the left until reaching a rock tunnel about three meters away, from here we continue slightly towards the right (not to the left!!!) on easy terrain until we get to a sort of ledge-cave where the belay station using two rock tunnels is located.
  • Once here, we can make a III+ traverse to connect with the last pitch of the Cepeda, or continue along the original route to the ridge (IV+) in one or two more pitches. At the highest part of the ridge is a large and attached block from which you can rappel down to the South Face amphitheatre (take a long cordelette in case you need to replace it).
  • We get back down using the rappels that have been set up in the South Face. Traditionally, people used to rappel down the Directa de los Martínez, but two parallel lines have recently been installed to avoid gatherings as well as disturbing people climbing the Directa de los Martínez (see descent description).



About 250 m climbing and 150 m scrambling in the south amphitheatre


V+º (Vº obligatory)


From 4 to 6 hours


2 x 60 m ropes. Aliens and Camalots up to nº2


Downclimb the upper amphitheatre, then use one of the rappel lines set up for the descent. It's better not to rappel down the Directa de los Martínez in order to avoid gatherings as well as disturbing the climbers.


Alfredo Díaz and Hermán Llanos 23 August 1974.

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