NORMAL ROUTE AND DIEDRO RUBIO. Bustamante Needle

Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

The sharp Bustamante Needle is striking from the Peña Vieja crossroads or any other point on the climb up of La Canalona. Together with the Canalona Needle and the great surrounding walls such as Horcados Rojos, it gives this area a great alpine atmosphere. A very aerial summit that every climber wants to reach.

Although it wasn't the first one to be used to get to the summit, the most common to reach the top is the East Arête.

  • Scramble until getting at the beginning of the route, trying to find the easiest way (Iiº).
  • The first pitch starts in a sort of chimney, that concentrates the greatest difficulty of the pitch, and then follows some easier dihedrals up to a large ledge where the belay station is located (a large rock tunnel).
  • The second pitch starts with a little exit move, hard to protect except is carrying a big firend (n°4 minimum). Then it gets easier. The second belay station can be set using two bolts with rings from which you can rappel down the north fork (north hill).
  • Beware of the rock in some sections.

The Diedro Rubio is actually a variant of the first pitch of the East arête. It's more difficult but very beautiful. A layback-dihedral of about 30 m that can be easily protected with friends. This route can be a nice and recommendable option to reach the summit if we come from Palacio de Invierno and don't want to "suffer" more than necessary in Dopamina.

FACT SHEET

LENGTH

About 80 m

DIFFICULTY

IV+

DURATION

1-2h

EQUIPMENT

Nuts and friends up to number 3 (Camalot)

DESCENT

Abseil down the north fork (exactly 30 m). Then, downclimb until getting to the scree.

FIRST ASCENT

F.Núñez de Célis and J.Ántonio Odriozola 14/8/1950

Diedro Rubio:Á.Cianca, J.Rubio y Marisa Torralbo 17/8/1982

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