Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

The route El Pilar del Mal Fario draws the attention of any climber before reaching La Vueltona because of the characteristic dihedral/off-width crack of the third pitch, which is easily observed from the road.

It mixes sections of uncertain rock with others that are very good, as it is typical of Peña Olvidada. Do not underestimate the grade, a demanding route that will not appeal to everyone but will attract climbers looking for "something more". A little adventure. If combined with the "Ora et Labora" route exit, it becomes a route with character that could be among the best in Peña Olvidada.

  • The first pitch sets the scene. Easy but with sections of uncertain rock where it is difficult to place protection.
  • The second pitch has a short A1 section. In free climbing it's about 6b/+, but it is very broken. Then the difficulty drops and the rock gets better but you still have to climb.
  • If you don't master the off-width technique, the third pitch becomes physical, but if you use a Camalot nº6 you'll be able to make it.
  • The next pitch is easier.
  • We reach the second part of the route. The fifth pitch is quite exposed. You'll have to control your mind more than your fingers. We didn't carry pitons and maybe that could explain this feeling.
  • The sixth has some nice but well-protected slab moves.
  • The last pitch is a fairly vertical dihedral, nice to climb but be careful not to get lost.

It is not necessary to take pitons, but it is advisable to carry some if you are not very fit.



About 250 m


6b (6a exposed and obligatory)


5-6 h


Nuts and a set of friends. Highly recommended to carry a Camalot n°6 for the third pitch. It can be climbed without pitons, but it is advisable to bring some if you're in trouble.


Abseil from the last belay station and downclimb to the rappels installed at the base of the Circo Grís (see topo). If you do not know them, it is preferable to continue and use the rappels on the couloir of the normal ascent route to Peña Olvidada.


Started by José Rubio and J.Sáenz, and finalised by the latter together with G.Lanza and Á.Bengoechea 14/6/1999*

*Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

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