Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

Peña Olvidada isn't as visited by climbers as it used to be in the past years despite its proximity to the Fuente Dé cable car. But a large number of routes are open, many of them of considerable difficulty and length. Some are even waiting for their first repetition. The special rock of this mountain that alternates very good sections with others not so good, the little information and the stamp of the openers makes any of the routes on this wall a small adventure.

The Sacando Cuchu route navigates in the compact vertical wall on the right side of Peña Olvidada in search of the weakest sections to reach "El Escudo", a perfect slab crossed by the fifth pitch. A route with character in which the rock is generally quite good but with some tricky sections. The large upper terrace is a pity as it detracts from the ambience. It is not advisable to be too low in level and experience.

  • The first pitch is climbed on generally good rock. A bolt protects the most difficult part and the belay station is a bit uncomfortable on two pitons.
  • The second pitch concentrates its difficulty on a bulge that is well-protected by a bolt but has an obligatory move. Good rock.
  • The third pitch is the most delicate of the route. Sustained, uncertain rock and little or no anchors (at least if we don't carry pitons). Belay station using two bolts.
  • The fourth length: It changes completely, a slab protected by two bolts of good rock. Set up belay station using one piton and one bolt.
  • Then we reach "El Escudo". A spectacular pitch with perfect rock, equipped with bolts and a piton but pretty far away. Tight grade in my opinion. Set up belay station using one alien and one bolt.
  • From the sixth pitch onwards the difficulty decreases, but so does the fixed anchors. A small bulge concentrates all the difficulty of the pitch. Belay station using two pitons.
  • The seventh pitch: A traverse slab on a very good and sticky rock of about 15m on which you can only put some dubious friends at the beginning and maybe some pitons. Not excessive but exposed. At the end of the traverse, we find another piton, then the difficulty drops until reaching the belay station (one piton).
  • We reach a large terrace (IIIº), we walk along it in search of the upper wall to the right of a cave. The route continues through the centre of the upper wall. We got lost once in the fog and climbed up a couloir about 30m to the right, not recommended, broken rock and not too difficult but exposed pitches.



About 400 m


6c+ (6b+ obligatory)


7-9 h, plus the descent


A set of friends and nuts. It can be climbed without pitons, but it is advisable to bring some if you're not very fit.


Descend the rappels that lead to the rocky area of La Vueltona. If you don't know them, they may be hard to find. Take it into account as for the schedule.


Á.Bengoeche, J.Sáenz, Francisco Borja, E.R. de Deus, M.rodríguez and L. Rotaeche 19-20 de June1999*

*Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

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