Climbing routes Directory Naranjo de Bulnes

The Sagitario is one of the best known and most repeated routes on the West Face of the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu). It doesn't reach the summit, it only climbs up to Tiros de la Torca, so it can be a good test before tackling a "big one" or simply if we want to enjoy a morning or afternoon without too many complications. Highly recommended.

Sagitario in the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu). Route description:

It's a very nice route regarding both its verticality and the quality of its rock. The route goes relatively straight and searches for the weakest points in order to progress. All the pitches are similar in terms of grade and equipment, there are permanent anchors, but it's necessary to upgrade the protection, mainly with Aliens. The fifth pitch is the most challenging as it has a section where the anchors are pretty far from each other. The sixth pitch is well-equipped in its hardest section. 

All the belay stations are equipped with bolts and rings to rappel down.
Warning: This route is very dangerous in case of rain or stormy weather due to the water accumulated in Tiros de la Torca that drags a lot of stones along these lines.



about 250 m


6a+ (V+/6a obligatory)


from 3 to 5 hours plus abseiling


A complete set of friends up to Camalot n°2 (Nº3 useful in the second pitch but not essential). Two 60 m ropes to abseil down.


The best is to rappel down in three steps : from the belay station 7 to the 5, from the 5 to the 2 of the Leiva, and from here back down (see the topo). It's also possible to abseil down the Sagitario, but you'll need to make one more rappel (4 in total).


A.Villar and H.Giraldo in three days of October 1985.

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