The Sur Clásica or rather the Régil entrance variant in Horcados Rojos, are part of the circuit of the five great medium-difficulty classics of the Massif Central:
- Casiopea (Torre Salinas)
- Spur of the Frenchmen (Peña Vieja)
- Pidal-Cainejo (Urriellu)
- North Spur of the Torre Cerredo.
And of the seven classics of Picos de Europa, if we add the Espolón del Jisu in the Macizo Oriental and the Canal del Pájaro Negro to Peña Santa.
A 350m long alpine route with a beautiful atmosphere. It has plenty of pitons installed.
Sur Clásica. Route description:
- First pitch: After an easy scramble section (IIº) we find the first belay station made of two pitons. . This is the start of the first pitch, which has two variants. They are not very difficult, but you have to be careful to follow the easiest itinerary. In our opinion, the variant on the right side is more beautiful.
- Once on the ridge, we start the most beautiful pitch of the route. It consists in overcoming two bulges with breaks in between. We will find several pitons. Set up belay station using pitons that need to be reinforced with friends.
- We climb the next pitch in X along a chimney until reaching a belay station with two pitons.
- This is followed by a difficult chimney pitch. We'll find pitons at key points but stay focused: the fall hits a ledge. Belay station using two pitons just after the crux on the left part of the couloir.
- Then the difficulty decreases except for a small bulge.
- Finally continue on easier terrain to the summit (loose rock).
Régil in Horcados Rojos. Route description:
A more direct and aesthetic but also more complicated way to climb the Sur Clásica de Horcados Rojos is by its Variant Régil. It meets up with the original at the characteristic ridge. The large chimney is spectacular. There are several pitons installed, but like all chimneys you need to be able to climb with distant anchors. If you don't know the technique it can be a bit stressful. Tight grade in our opinion. All the belay stations use pitons except the first one, which needs to be set up on some block or friends.