SPECTRUM. Bustamante Needle

Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

The Spectrum on the Bustamante Needle is a hidden and not very flashy route, however, if we combine it with the two last pitches of the Dopamina, it becomes a very complete route, similar in terms of quality to other better-known routes in the area such as Rojo Libanés. Highly recommended.

  • The first pitch is a dihedral-flake that can easily be spotted from the base, it's a sustained climb but that can be well-protected with friends. There's a piton on the left side of the dihedral, but it doesn't belong to the route (marked "NO" in the topo). Grade a bit tight in our opinion.
  • The second pitch is a sustained wall made of exceptional rock, almost equipped with bolts and pitons, but obligatory.
  • The third pitch continues along the wall, very good quality rock and obligatory move, but protected with a bolt relatively close by. Belay station using two 8 mm bolts.
  • In the fourth pitch the difficulty decreases and the terrain becomes more alpine. Belay station using one piton.
  • The fifth pitch consists of a tough dihedral-crack. Belay station using one piton in the south fork.

From here you can downclimb towards the east (III+º), or reach the summit of the Bustamante Needle by the Diedro Rubio or Dopamina, making it a longer and more complete climb.

FACT SHEET

LENGTH

About 180 m until the ridge, and 70 m more if climbing Dopamina.

DIFFICULTY

6b (6a+ obligatory)

DURATION

3-4h

EQUIPMENT

Nuts and a set of friends up to nº 2 of Camalot (If climbing Dopamina, take one nº 3 of Camalot, repeat yellow Alien and Camalot 0.75 and 1)

DESCENT

Downclimb towards the East (III+º). If climbing Dopamina, abseil from the summit down to the north fork (horquilla norte) (exactly 30 m).

FIRST ASCENT

J.Sáenz, J.A Estévez and M.Rodríguez in June of 2004

*Source : Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

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