Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

The south face of the Torre de Altaiz has two free climbing routes that are highly recommended due to the high quality of the rock on this wall, and the unique style of the openers. Comfortable approach from the cable car and abseils.

El Demonio de la Peña has already become a "modern classic" of the Fuente Dé area. Similar in style and difficulty to Palacio de Invierno. Very nice and recommendable, one of the bests of its kind in the area. This is yet another example of the great vision of the openers. Opened in free climbing.

  • The first pitch has a small, somewhat overhanging V pitch on uncertain rock, and then a diagonal to the right of about 15m of III.
  • The second pitch is the most difficult because it is the most obligatory. A section of layback and slab climbing of very compact rock.
  • The third pitch has a very good rock. We start on a wall with two bolts. Then the difficulty decreases unlike the quality of the rock.
  • The fourth pitch is a transition one. It links up well with the fifth pitch, which is also very beautiful and has very good rock. Two diagonal cracks will guide us along the route, and the belay station can be set up using a large rock tunnel from which we can rappel down. Plan for it in case it needs to be renewed.

Más Madera is a short but high-quality route. Although it is somewhat demanding, it will soon become a classic route in terms of its difficulty in the surroundings of Fuente Dé. Make sure you've got enough level and experience, but highly recommended.

  • The route starts at a rock tunnel equipped as a "belay station 0" from where you can spot the route.
  • A first pitch with some delicate mooves to reach the belay station that can be linked to the second pitch. A well-protected explosive wall that leads to an easier area of exceptional rock.
  • The third pitch continues along the wall, difficult to protect up to a large dihedral diagonal crack where we can use large friends. Perfect rock.

The direct variant has an approximate grade of 7a. A very nice semi-equipped pitch that will extend the day's climbing in the area.To access the route, it is best to enter via the ledges from the couloir that separates the Torre de Altaiz and San Carlos, or you can also enter via the entrance ledges of the El Demonio de la Peña route. Watch out! These ledges are easy but exposed.



About 150 m to El Demonio de la Peña and a little less than 100 m to Más Madera.


El Demonio de la Peña: 6b (6a obligatory)

Más Maderas 6b (6a+ obligatory)


2-4 h climbing and abseiling


El Demonio de la Peña: a set of friends up to Camalot n°2

Mas Madera: A set of friends up to Camalot n°4, one or two large extra (1, 2 or 3)


Demonio de la Peña: you can continue to the summit by scrambling up and walking down the normal Altaiz path, or abseiling from R5 to R3, from R3 to R2 and from R2 to the ground. The R5 is a large rock tunnel, carry a long cordelette in case you need to renew it and an oval shackle, the rappel ring is a homemade welded ring. The rest of the rappels are set up on rings.

Más Madera: one abseil. Bring cordelette to renew, the belay station is prepared with two bolts without rings.


El Demonio de la Peña: M.Rodríguez, Á.Bengoechea and J.Sáenz 30/6/2001* Más Madera: J.Sáenz and M.Collado YEAR? *Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

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