Palacio de Invierno on the Bustamante Needle is the most outstanding route on this mountain due to its length and quality. But it's not the only one, this needle has a good number of opened climbing routes, and most of them are highly recommended, which allows you to extend your climbing day in the area.
Palacio de Invierno on the Bustamante Needle has become a modern classic in the Picos de Europa. It's a really beautiful climb with vertical walls of exceptional rock. Highly recommended, especially when reaching the summit along the two last pitches of Dopamina.
It is an achievable route in terms of difficulty, but the itinerary must be well-interpreted and it requires a bit of engaged climbing, especially in the easier sections, so it's advisable to feel confident in this grade.
Recently restored. The spits have been replaced with 10x90 mm stainless stell bolts.
The zinc-plated stainless steel bolts are in good condition, but it's been decided not to replace them in order not to over drill the rock. Now the route can be rappeled from the belay station 4 down to belay station 2, and from belay station 2 down to the ground (with two 60 m ropes), rings have been installed at these belay stations.
Palacio de Invierno on the Bustamante Needle. Climbing description:
- The first pitch is an IV+ exit dihedral (tight in our opinion) that is well-protected with friends, and a scrambling section until reaching the belay station. It can be linked with the next pitch if the ropes are well-aligned.
- Second pitch : it climbs up util the edge of the wall where a small dihedral begins that will lead us to a kind of ledge.
- Third pitch : beautiful wall made of perfect rock, where you need to wind a bit to find the easiest way. Beautiful.
- Finally, the fourth pitch has a well-secured entry bulge, and continues along a vertical wall of excellent rock. The pitons will guide us along the route.
- If we don't want to climb anymore, the best is to rappel down from this belay station, but you'll need two 60 m ropes. If having only one rope, we can climb up to the ridge of the Bustamante needle, and downclimb a kind of vertical couloir (III+) towards the East.
- The Dopamina begins just before starting to downclimb, and on its right side is the Diedro Rubio. Both of them go up to the summit of the Bustamante Needle. A good option to extend the day. Both are highly recommended.
- Getting down of the Bustamante Needle abseiling 30 m in one go.