RABADÁ-NAVARRO. NARANJO DE BULNES WEST FACE

The Rabadá Navarro in the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu) is probably one of the most famous in our country, not much can be said that hadn't already be written... A route of moderate difficulty, long, with a big wall atmosphere and some pitches of an exceptional limestone quality. Highly recommended.

The name honours its openers, Alberto Rabadá and Ernesto Navarro, two pioneers of difficulty climbing. Even today, 50 years later, it is still necessary to be properly trained and experienced to be able to repeat some of their routes. They have left us an example of  openings, companionship and bravery that we mustn't forget.

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The Rabadá Navarro in the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu) is probably one of the most famous in our country, not much can be said that hadn't already be written... A route of moderate difficulty, long, with a big wall atmosphere and some pitches of an exceptional limestone quality. Highly recommended.

The name honours its openers, Alberto Rabadá and Ernesto Navarro, two pioneers of difficulty climbing. Even today, 50 years later, it is still necessary to be properly trained and experienced to be able to repeat some of their routes. They have left us an example of  openings, companionship and bravery that we mustn't forget.

Rabadá Navarro in the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu). Roupe description:

• A few meters from the start of the first pitch is a small bulge with a hard but easily "friggable" move. Then the difficulty decreases until reaching a ledge where the belay station is located using two bolts. If we alternated the ropes well, it's possible to continue along the next pitch through a short but athletic dihedral until you get  to another belay station using two bolts (the first shown in the topo). 
• * There's another way to enter the first pitch consisting of the Solo al Viento route, on the left-hand side of the normal route, a slab equipped with spits (we think it must be around 6c+).
• The second pitch is the hardest of the route. It overcomes most of the large dihedral which forms Lastra Soldada on its right side. Some sections are a bit polished but can generally be well protected with friends and nuts. There are some pitons and one bolt. Belays station using two bolts.
• The next pitch starts with a kind of chimney that is more difficult than it looks from below and continues over easy but somewhat poor terrain until reaching the top of the attached flake. Belay station using spits.
• The fourth pitch starts on a beautiful vertical wall equipped with some spits and pitons that leads us to the Cicatriz (the scar). Belay station using three pitons that need to be reinforced with a friend (green, yellow or blue Camalot).
• The fifth pitch continues along the Cicatriz. Perfect rock, very beautiful. We reach a belay station with two bolts, but we can continue to the next belay station of Tiros de la Torca on a large rock tunnel. From here, if too tired or running late we can retreat from the route by abseiling down one of the rappel lines of the Sagitario (very dangerous to rappel down the Sagitario in case of storm).
• Sixth pitch : we climb up about 10 m and make a traverse towards the left until reaching a belay station with two pitons.
• Seventh pitch : The traverse begins. The best pitch of the route, a slab of excellent rock equipped with bolts. The typical photos of this pitch speak for themselves. Belay station using two bolts.
• Eighth pitch : There's a rappel avoiding the most vertical area, and then a traverse/pendulum to the left (there's a piton) until getting to a belay station sharing two bolts with the Directísima.
• Ninth pitch : The Gran Travesía continues over easy terrain, passing by one of the Murciana's belay stations and goes on until reaching the base of the Gran Diedro (great dihedral) where you can set up a belay station using two pitons.
• Tenth pitch : The Grand Diedro begins, it's relatively simple, easy to protect and has very good rock. Although there's an intermediate belay station using some rock tunnels, it's better (if not placing many protections) to continue until the next one (3 pitons and 55 m).
• Eleventh pitch : Continue along the Grand Diedro to its summit. Belay station using pitons and spits.
• The next pitch is a transition pitch. You'll need to climb down in grade II+º until a large ledge where is located the belay station using pitons.
• Thirteenth pitch : two small bulges of grade V and V+, well protected with pitons and rock tunnels. After the second bulge is a belay station with pitons, but you can continue to the next one located on the arête, or north spur (three pitons).
• From here to the summit there are two more bolted belay stations located on the left side of the arête, it's possible to skip the first one. Be careful not to get confuse over here as you can't spot the belay stations very well. Finally, there's one more pitch that climbs up a small dihedral with pitons on the right side of the belay station. 
• We get back down using the rappels that have been set up in the South Face. Traditionally, people used to rappel down the Directa de los Martínez, but two parallel lines have recently been installed to avoid gatherings as well as disturbing people climbing the Directa de los Martínez (see descent description).

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