ROJO LIBANÉS. HORCADOS ROJOS

Climbing routes Directory Fuente Dé area

The climbing route Rojo Libanés in Horcados Rojos is one of the great classics of moderate difficulty in the Picos de Europa and one of the best known in the Fuente Dé area. Little can be said about this route that is not already known. An elegant route in search of the weak point of the wall and high quality rock ensure a good day's climbing. One of the best routes of its difficulty in Picos.

Rojo Libanés in Horcados Rojos has been recently restored as well as other routes on this wall such as Chico Problemático or Déjame Vivir. All the old spits have been replaced by 10x90mm stainless steel bolts. There are no expansion bolts on the pitches but, although some pitches are obligatory, it is not an exposed route if the friends and nuts are well used.

Vía Rojo Libanés in Horcados Rojos. Route description:

  • The first pitch of the route starts with a marked dihedral-crack of a grade that is, in our opinion, a bit tight but can be well protected with friends. Set up the belay station using a rock tunnel. It can be linked to the following if we have not placed many protections.
  • The third pitch overcomes a beautiful layback crack. At the end of the crack, there is a short traverse over easy terrain to the belay station.
  • Fourth pitch, we reach the famous traverse. Very beautiful and with an exceptional rock. Once the traverse is finished, we reach a dihedral where a 3.5 or 4 Camalot is a very good option for protection.
  • The next pitch overcomes two explosive but not very obligatory bulges. Belay station using two pitons about 10 m after the second bulge.
  • The sixth pitch, which is simple, climbs up a sort of ramp diagonally to the right to a ledge where we find the belay station made of two pitons.
  • Finally, a last fun pitch takes us to the summit.

FACT SHEET

LENGTH

About 250 m

DIFFICULTY

6b+ (6a+ obligatory)

DURATION

4-6 h, plus the descent

EQUIPMENT

A set of friends up to Camalot n°3,5 or 4 An extra 0,75 or 1 can be useful in the first pitch.

DESCENT

Walk down to the abseils of the pass, or walk along the north side to the Horcados Rojos pass, which is longer but similar in time, especially in a group of three.

FIRST ASCENT

Á.Bengoechea, J.Sáenz, J.A Pérez Cano, M.Cueto and R.López in July 1989*

*Source: Climbing guidebook "Escalada en Roca en los Picos de Europa"

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